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Wild Adventure – Namibia and Kgalagadi – Day 3 Springbok to Ai Ais

Wild Adventure – Namibia an Kgalagadi – Day 3 – Springbok to Ai Ais

29 October 2018

This morning we were all up at 7 getting ready for departure.  We had rusks, cereal and coffee for breakfast and The Earl and I set off ahead of The Mools as we would be travelling a tad slower.  It’s a good thing we did this because as we neared Steinskop we became aware of an awful knocking sound on the rear right of the car.   We contacted the Mools who had not yet left Springbok and told them we would turn into the Steinkopf to have it checked out.  Well, the mechanics at the local garage didn’t have a high lift so we had to head back to Ford in Springbok.  The Mools had just left but turned back saying they thought they should rather wait for us.

I phoned ahead to tell the mechanics that we needed emergency assistance and they were quite willing to see us immediately.   The Mools had a flask of boiling water and we found a shady spot, set out my cups on a chopping board, hauled out the cookies and rusks and had a little coffee party next to the forecourt!

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Preparing to picnic in front of the workshop!

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The Ford in the air

Luckily it was an easily sorted problem – the paper label had come loose from the prop shaft and was hitting against it making an unholy noise.  With that sorted were back on the road by 10:30.

We reached Vioolsdrift just before midday and the border crossing went smoothly.  It was not at all busy

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Then we were in Namibia!

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We filled up with fuel then drove through the desolate landscape of semis dessert.  The rocks are phenomenal!   Sometimes it looked like a pile of boulders had been poured onto  the side of the road by a huge dump truck.  It felt like we were driving on another moon like planet.IMG_1410IMG_1408

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Check in at Ai Ais went smoothly and we set up camp under some shady trees.   By five we were ready for our first swim in the hot pools

The wind got up in the evening so we decided not to braai and instead ate at the restaurant.  Pat had Schnitzel, I had chicken breast with cheese sauce and the men had rump steak.  The steak was a bit sinewy but very tasty.  We all enjoyed our meal but had to fetch our own wine as they had run out of the type they sold by the glass.  That saved us R40 each!

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Our first day in Namibia went well!  More of our adventure to follow.

 

 

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Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 13 and Day 14

Sunday 14 June 2015 Okaukuejo

We go out at 6:30 this morning and visit a couple of waterholes.  There is not much except for the usual suspects.  We see one elephant.  It is good, though, to see that there are animals scattered about.  We return at 8:30 for breakfast and then do our own thing for the rest of the day.

Breakfast at Okaukuejo

Breakfast at Okaukuejo

Earl takes some lovely shots of animals at the waterhole.

Lots to see at the waterhole

Lots to see at the waterhole

Keeping an eye on the ladies

Keeping an eye on the ladies

A tawny hoping for a snack?

A tawny hoping for a snack?

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Janet and Stuart arrive and we find their camping site and invite them to join us for a braai in the evening.  We have a great time.

Braai

Monday June15 2015 Are there any Lions in Etosha?

Our six days in the park are stunning. We have marvellous encounters with elephant, zebra and giraffe.  We see black rhino at the waterholes and the weather is fabulous.   But hey where the hell are the lions?   Certainly none cross our path.  Okay, so we come to the parks for the birds and enjoy whatever happens to turn up – but this is the first time ever that we’ve visited a major park and not seen cats.  Yes – we  see Cheetah but they are half hidden and boring.   And when you have overseas guests you want to impress them with the king of the African Bush for Goodness sake.  So it was with a slight feeling of disappointment that we exit Okaukuejo Gate for the last  stretch to Anderson Gate and I say, Don’t worry guys – we will probably get lions in Kgalagadi.
Then just minutes from the gate we see a few cars stopped up ahead.  Wendy yells What’s that?

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A lion cub slipping through the bush

Soon we catch sight of 4 lions.  1 mother, 2 small cubs and an older sibling we think.   The Mom and big sister flop down under a tree but the cubs go on a bit further and then flop down in full view.  Oh Joy!   The older one gets up after a while and joins the little ones. We spend 20 minutes watching them get up and wander and return to the comfort of their spot. we reluctantly bid them farewell and continue happily on our way to our next destination.

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We reluctantly bid them farewell and continue happily on our way to our next destination.

Goodbye Etosha

Goodbye Etosha

We check into Sun Kaross, Daan Viljoen at 1ish and are assigned chalet 8 and 9.  Great spot but the view is of an empty dam!  Our accommodation is stunning but it is very cold.  Luckily we have down duvets and extra blankets and we put the airocn up to 30.

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We unpack and have a cup of tea and then go on a journey of exploration.  The list of game includes warthog, giraffe, zebra, red hartebeest, eland, jackal, wildebeest and kudu.  Erich is delighted when our first spot is a single wildebeest and red hartebeest together!  We follow a 4×4 trail and find all the species except eland, zebra and jackal.

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Red Hartebeest

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Go Away Bird

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Short-toed Rock Thrush

IMG_5719 IMG_5718 IMG_5708 The braai facilities are great but the chalet is not equipped with crockery and cutlery.  There is a fridge, kettle, glasses and cups and saucers.  Tea and coffee are also provided.
We go to the restaurant and find we are the only chalet dwellers and there is no one else there for dinner.  We order the chef’s curry which is a huge helping and totally delicious.  Erich has Schnitzel, which is okay, if a little dry. The value for money is good.
Nobody wants dessert.

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Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 12

Saturday 13 June 2015 Halali to Okaukuejo

By 7:00 a.m. we go off to have our last breakfast at Halali.

Earl forgets to refuel so we can’t take the long route to Okaukuejo.  We stop at a few waterholes but as we get nearer and nearer to Okaukeujo it became drier and drier.

Still we enjoy what we see, the highlight being a honey badger in its natural habitat and not scrounging in dustbins for tourists’ left-overs.

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A nice mix of creatures

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He is too quick for a good photograph

He is too quick for a good photograph

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Honey Badgers are tenacious little creatures with little fear. They will stand up to lion should there be a confrontation. Their hide is tough and unpalatable to most predators.

We check in at reception at 9:00 but of course our rooms are not ready.  However, we get our numbers and take a look at what facilities they have to offer. We are pleased to see there is a braai.    So before going for a drive we shop for supplies.   Luckily this shop is better stocked than the previous two camps.  We get fresh tomatoes, lettuce, peppers, potatoes and onions. The meat on offer is ‘game’ but no mention of which animal.   It looks good so we buy fillets and steaks and some sausage.   We also indulge in an ice-cream treat, stow the goodies in the car fridge and set off for a our drive.

Okaukuejo

Okaukuejo

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Male kudu with his females

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Shy Steenbok

This jackal was hiding away to take a nap

This jackal was hiding away to take a nap

We return at 12:00 but the rooms will not be ready till 14:00  So we have a drink next to the pool.  Erich and Earl climb the tower and then come back to tell us that they’ve spotted elephants and would we like to go for a short drive to find them. Of course we do – and we find them.

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They are heading toward the camp waterhole and so we race back and sit there and wait.  A springbok stands stock still staring into the distance and Wendy says, – I think he senses the ellies.  Sure enough they appear at that moment, come down to drink and play and it is fun to watch.

Here comes the matriach

Here comes the matriarch

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We then check into our chalets

For the record:   Bush chalets are either two bedroom (4 beds) and one bathroom or one bedroom (two beds) one bathroom at Etosha.  Halali and Okaukuejo have braai facilities.  Halali provides crockery and cutlery – Okaukuejo does not.  There is no stove or hot plate.  There is a fridge in each unit. There is a kitchen with sink, kettle, cups and saucers and tea, coffee, sugar provided.  Work space is limited.  You need to bring your own pots, pans, chopping boards, braai kit etc.

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Comfortable bedroom

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Basic Bathroom

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Small open plan kitchen/sitting room

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Basically equipped with fridge and sink

While I am waiting to get my keys from reception there is a man ahead of me in the queue.  He asks if there is DSTV.   “No sir, – no wifi – no TV – We have a waterhole with live animals”

“Oh no – I want to watch the rugby”

“The springboks are here,” I joke.

He is not amused.

We relax for the rest of the afternoon visiting the pool and the water hole and enjoy a great braai for supper.

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Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 11

Friday 12 June 2015 Halali

We decide to have a rest day today. I get up first and out of the corner of my eye spot a ‘dog’ darting past the window.  Of course it was not a dog but a honey badger. I dash out with my camera but the light is still not good enough.  The badger is having fun.  He rolls and does head-over-heals and darts about doing his morning exercise.  I watch in fascination and then he runs toward the exit gate having had enough fun scavenging in the bins of Halali for one night!

The Mischievous Honey Badger

The Mischievous Honey Badger

Our chalet attendant is comes early and lets me take a photo.

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I just love her outfit

Breakfast is first on our Agenda and after that we head out for our morning drive.

The guys enjoying their morning coffee

The guys enjoying their morning coffee

It is very dry in Etosha at present, yet there is plenty of game about in the form of giraffe, zebra, elephant, springbok, impala, gemsbok and kudu.

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Black-faced impala

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Gathering of Stripes

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We are also see the Northern Black Korhaan.

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What’s that you’re saying?

In the afternoon we spend some time at the pool.  Earl has a nap but Erich, Wendy and I order a take away lunch – chicken patty, salad and chips.  It takes an hour before it is delivered to us but it is really good. Before Erich arrives at the pool Wendy and I try to move a lounge into the shade but they are rather heavy.  A young man comes over to offer help – I am convinced that Wendy and I haven’t lost our charm but she says – It’s because we remind him of his granny and he couldn’t let his granny do it on her own.

Oh well!   Anyway there are two of these young men and they introduce themselves and chat to us – One is German the other Chilean.  Later an Alaskan joins them and it is fun learning that they’d met each other in Windhoek and are now travelling together.  The young Chilean is an airline pilot who has taken a year off to travel.  The German is a musician and the Alaskan has some sort of trade and is working his way around the world.

After our swim and lunch, Earl wakes up and joins us for a bit at the pool.  We then go to the waterhole and after enjoying that for a bit we go back to the chalet to braai.

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A serious discussion on what to do about the intruding zebra

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Shall we chase the zebs away?

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The rhino are coming

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I told you not to do that!

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Oh well – I guess we’ll just share the waterhole

In the evening we enjoy a braai at our chalet

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Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 10

Thursday 11 June 2015 Namutoni to Halali

We are packed and ready to leave after our usual excellent restaurant breakfast.

It is a zebra day today.  We see them in huge herds and wonder if they are having a convention!

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Mom and baby zebra

Mom and baby zebra

Lots of wildebeest too

Lots of wildebeest too

At one waterhole we see a hyena

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and at Kalkheuwel we find a young elephant that has met his end.

Poor thing

Poor thing

We wonder what could have caused it – we cannot see his head but the rest of the body doesn’t seem to be injured.   As we are on our way to the next camp there is no chance that we can return to see what will take advantage of this freely available carcass.

At 9 o’clock just before Batia Water Hole we find 3 cheetahs lighting in the grass – well camouflaged making photography difficult.

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We continue on our way and find rhino, impala, kudu and a vulture on a nest.

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We arrive at Halala at midday after visiting Goas which gives us a good show of elephants bathing and other species drinking.

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After unpacking and settling in Erich and Wendy have a snooze while Earl and I go to the camp water hole.  We see a few impala come down and there is some bird activity.

Golden-breasted bunting and violet-eated waxbill

Golden-breasted bunting and violet-eated waxbill

At 3:30 we go back to Goas. There is very little happening at first but then Wendy calls– here come the elephants.  It is fascinating watching them come down all in a line.  They come extremely close to the car parked in front of us and I think the occupants are quite nervous.   A male comes to join the females but they ignore him and when they leave he does not follow.  We feel sorry for the poor lonely guy – but this is the way it works with elephants!

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005 Elephants 004 Elephants at waterhole

There are interesting birds to watch too.

Red-billed francolin

Red-billed francolin

Double-banded Sandgrouse

Double-banded Sandgrouse

Yellow-billed hornbill

Yellow-billed hornbill

We get back to camp with 8 minutes to spare before gate closing time.   We go t straight to the water hole and are delighted to find two black rhino drinking.    We are there just in time as after 10 minutes they leave.  Some zebra start to come down but change their minds – it might be because a tawny eagle is in their way or the coming and going of the sandgrouse might make them nervous.

At quarter past six we leave to get ready for dinner at the restaurant.   Our neighbours come to ask if we have a torch as they’ve spotted a honey badger raiding the bins.  This delays us a bit but we manage to get photos of the cheeky creature.

Naughty Honey Badger

Naughty Honey Badger

One is on our stoop when we got back from dinner, giving me quite a scare!

We find that we can self-cater at this cabin and will make a plan to do so tomorrow.  It is very basically equipped but we have our own utensils. Unfortunately the camp shop is poorly stocked but we should be able to get meat and canned vegetables.

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Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 9

Wednesday 10 June 2015 – Namutoni

We are second car out of the gate after handing in our laundry at reception on 6:10 am.   The gate is meant to open at 6:25. It is light and Earl persuades the guys to open a tad earlier so were on the road by 6:15.

Giraffe are the order of the day today and we see them everywhere.  They are my favourite animal as to me they are a true iconic African creature.  There is nothing nicer than seeing a landscape dotted with tall giraffe.

In Etosha they seem to be darker and dustier than the Kruger giraffe.  I know the males are darker and get darker and darker as they age too.

Sunrise

Sunrise

In Etosha they seem to be darker and dustier than the Kruger giraffe.  I know the males are darker and get darker and darker as they age too.

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Of course Earl and I stop to see every bird and this confuses our guests.  “I can’t understand it,”says Erich “You stop for a tiny little bird but drive straight past a Wildebeest.”  After that we stop for every impala, springbok, ostrich and wildebeest and try to see the park through the eyes of a novice to the wilds of Africa!

Stopping for a wildebeest

Stopping for a wildebeest

A beautiful male ostrich

A beautiful male ostrich

A friendly jackal

A friendly jackal

Steenbok

and a cute Steenbok

We continue and stop off at waterholes and have some interesting sightings.

An immature Gabar Goshawk

An immature Gabar Goshawk

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African Harrier Hawk

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We return to camp just after 8 for breakfast and do not go out again until after lunch at 1:00 pm.

Earl and Erich nap for a while.  Wendy goes to buy gifts at the curio shop, I go to the waterhole and walk around camp but I’m disappointed at the lack of birdlife.  Then Wendy and I join up and spend some time at the pool.  It is hot but the water is freezing.  Wendy and I chat on our lounges and then she says, “That water looks so inviting. I think we should at least attempt a swim.”  “Is that a challenge?” I ask  She smiles.  I get up and made my way to the shallow end and she follows.   I can’t believe how cold it is but Wendy goes down one step at a time and I can’t let her outdo me.  Soon we both plunge in and I gasp and yell at the chill!  We swim two lengths and then get out.  It is very invigorating but how crazy are we!  A young German couple look at us in disbelief – Wendy pipes – When you get older you tend to do crazy things!

E came along and I walk up to give him a wet hug but he yells and won’t let me near. I plunge back into the pool and he takes a photograph!

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Me in the freezing pool

Drying off in the hot sun

Drying off in the hot sun

Our afternoon drive is just as exciting.  As we make our way to the Kalkheuwel water hole, I shriek when an elephant suddenly appears on the road in front of us.  He raises his trunk, trumpets loudly and charges toward us.

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Earl goes  into full speed reverse. He keeps his cool and as he says – Stop being naughty – to an elephant who clearly can’t hear him.  But he must get a mental message because with one last trumpet he charges into the bush.   “I think I might need a clean pair of underpants,” Erich declares.  Phew – we all laugh nervously.  Our adrenalin rush for the day.

Some creatures we see before we return

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swallowtailed bee-eater

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Female weaver

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Lilac-breasted roller

018 Kori Bustard drinking

Kori Bustard drinking

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We visit the waterhole when we return but there is not much happening so we have sundowners and then go to dinner – another buffet.

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Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 8

Tuesday 9 June 2015 -Namutoni

We are up early to get the car is packed and ready for our after breakfast departure.

We start our slow trip up the dirt road and stop to watch birds including purple roller,IMG_4246

pied babbler

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Marico Fly-catcher

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and yellow-billed hornbill

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We are some kilometres away when it suddenly strikes me that I have left my expensive ski-jacket in the cupboard in our room.   There is a quick u turn as we race back to get it.

On the way back we see dik dik in the bushes.

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The Waterberg Plateau

The Waterberg Plateau

Termite Hill

Termite Hill

Finally we arrive at Namutoni.  On hearing my name the receptionist says – We have had a call from Sossusvlei – It seems that you have not paid for your two guided drives.  I am a bit taken aback as when I checked out I’d asked Herbert if all was in order and he’d assured me that it was. Earl goes straight into panic mode and thinks I have lost the receipt. But I only find receipts for dinners so he has to concede that the drives which should have been put onto our daily bill have been omitted. Yes – I should have checked the amounts but I’d simply written down the amounts paid by card in my meticulous records.

After calming down, we settle into our comfortable cabins, have a cold drink and then go out in the Land Rover.

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Luxurious Bathroom

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Comfortable sleeping quarters

We have a successful afternoon and see black-faced impala,

Black-faced Impala

zebra,

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giraffe,

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lots of kori bustards,

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northern black korhaan,

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grey hornbill,

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double banded courser,

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a single bull elephant,

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parent Burchell’s sandgrouse with 2 babies,

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and a black rhino hiding among the foliage of tree he was browsing.

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It is a good start to our stay in Etosha National Park!  When we get back to camp, Wendy and I browse around the fort shops and late we have dinner in the restaurant – a buffet which is acceptable.